I could feel my eyes begin to well up as my brain chemistry was transported back to being a five year old boy with his hand caught in the cookie jar. While I have been known as a sensitive guy I won't blame my sensitivity this time, no way no how sir. Rather, perhaps a lethal combo of not understanding the language and something akin to homesickness, and yet not. We'll call it foreign fatigue, alliteration trumps convention.
The problem at hand involved my being caught, like a bandit, emptying out my uneaten bowl of flour and water, somewhat of a staple food here, and the food given to me when I returned from a bank visit to Savalou. To add to my uneasiness was the complete lack of blood flow in my derriere due to the long moto ride. While the charm of riding a zem is undeniable, it begins to wear off after the twentieth minute.
I had thought that things were all hunky-dorey with my elderly neighbor/proprietor but it turns out that hell hath no fury like an old wrinkled woman. My colleague informed of my faux-pas and I was forced to face the lion. After a litany of Fon words had been thrown my way Grande-Maman broke the otherwise awkward moment with strange song and dance routine, which I was thankful for. My spirit was instantly lifted. Apparantly, it was a song that kids sing here when they get caught doing something bad, e.g. throwing out there strange flour porridge concoction.
Happiness became me, but I was still a bit shaken due to my road weariness and "foreign fatigue". It turns out everything is okay with my Grande-Maman. Like most things in this country, people begin with shouting and end with laughter, a custom I heartily admire. Dinner with my colleague allowed me to put things back in perspective and the moon and stars did the rest. I'm sure the palm wine helped as well.
A moon halo was my constant companion on the walk back home, where I greeted Grande-Maman warmly, no harm no foul I suppose. Sleep was ushered in by the whistling sound of the zangbetos in front of the temples, as deep night took hold in Aklampa. Remember, like America, if Maman ain't happy, ain't nobody happy.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Friday, October 23, 2009
One Month
Aklampa, like most things in Benin, is hard to describe. In the middle of the country and straddling the split in the national highway (highway equals paved road), the super-village acts like a coin spiral donation thingie (is that what they're called?) found at museums and the like, sucking in the produce from Benin's bread-basket and then sending it out to the rest of the country.
One month down here and I've managed to find internet access in the nearest town on the gadron(highway), Glazoué. School has commenced, slowly but surely, and I'm becoming quite acclimated to the laid-back attitude of my fellow collegues, who act more like the cast from "Saved By The Bell" than like American teachers.
To give a brief recap of my adventures thus far in the shining citadel of Beninese academia I'll start with the "first" week of school. This consisted of the teachers hanging out whilst the soon-to-be students hacked and weeded their way through the overgrown savannah that is CEG Aklampa.
After the first week "netoyage" school could begin to take flight and thus far I am thoroughly enjoying it. Highlights so far include name tag making, roaring like a lion to demonstrate what a lion is, and kicking a few neer-do-wells out of class, that oughta teach 'em! I rule with an iron fist! Not really, but I've managed a pretty good classroom thus far.
The village itself has been just as welcoming and it never gets old to simply walk around outside to saluier the neighbors and make new friends, who are fast dissappearing due to my prodigious canvassing. My place still lacks some basic amenities like a bed and a table and right now resembes an austere college room. That being said it has major potential and I've already commissioned the carpenter to go to town, so to speak, ou bien, go to village.
Food, while delicious, can become monotonous and a bit trying on the intestines but I would still rank it as good, as of right now that is. In Benin, when sampling new foods, I find it better to simply put it in and swallow before asking questions, this circumvents the brain's pesky warning flags and generally makes food more digestable, at least on the surface. The favourites so far in terms of food are 1) mashed yam, 2) tapioca with lots of sugar, and 3) yam fries. The fruit is also delicious, especially pineapple. Papaya, while tasty, has some later side effects that are for the most part worth avoiding.
A bike ride around the terre rouge surrounding the village is fast becoming my favourite pastime. The sacrée forét with a giant tree residing in the middle like a king in his court supplies a much needed burst of fresh forest air that cools the body as well as the soul. Also, if ever I'm in need of a moment to reflect and get a "wow" out, the vistas along the road do just the trick. "Bon arrivée" or "kwabo", the farmers will shout, and I'll simply nod with a silly grin on my face.
One month down here and I've managed to find internet access in the nearest town on the gadron(highway), Glazoué. School has commenced, slowly but surely, and I'm becoming quite acclimated to the laid-back attitude of my fellow collegues, who act more like the cast from "Saved By The Bell" than like American teachers.
To give a brief recap of my adventures thus far in the shining citadel of Beninese academia I'll start with the "first" week of school. This consisted of the teachers hanging out whilst the soon-to-be students hacked and weeded their way through the overgrown savannah that is CEG Aklampa.
After the first week "netoyage" school could begin to take flight and thus far I am thoroughly enjoying it. Highlights so far include name tag making, roaring like a lion to demonstrate what a lion is, and kicking a few neer-do-wells out of class, that oughta teach 'em! I rule with an iron fist! Not really, but I've managed a pretty good classroom thus far.
The village itself has been just as welcoming and it never gets old to simply walk around outside to saluier the neighbors and make new friends, who are fast dissappearing due to my prodigious canvassing. My place still lacks some basic amenities like a bed and a table and right now resembes an austere college room. That being said it has major potential and I've already commissioned the carpenter to go to town, so to speak, ou bien, go to village.
Food, while delicious, can become monotonous and a bit trying on the intestines but I would still rank it as good, as of right now that is. In Benin, when sampling new foods, I find it better to simply put it in and swallow before asking questions, this circumvents the brain's pesky warning flags and generally makes food more digestable, at least on the surface. The favourites so far in terms of food are 1) mashed yam, 2) tapioca with lots of sugar, and 3) yam fries. The fruit is also delicious, especially pineapple. Papaya, while tasty, has some later side effects that are for the most part worth avoiding.
A bike ride around the terre rouge surrounding the village is fast becoming my favourite pastime. The sacrée forét with a giant tree residing in the middle like a king in his court supplies a much needed burst of fresh forest air that cools the body as well as the soul. Also, if ever I'm in need of a moment to reflect and get a "wow" out, the vistas along the road do just the trick. "Bon arrivée" or "kwabo", the farmers will shout, and I'll simply nod with a silly grin on my face.
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